Nafplion the Ancient Capital of Greece

Posted on February 26th, 2017 - Fiona

Located on the south coast of the Peloponnese in Greece, the ancient city of Nafplion is well worth a visit. It was under half an hour by car from where we were staying in Kantia and an easy destination choice for us.

Nafplion the Ancient Capital of Greece

The Ancient Fort of Nafplion

No visit to Nafplion is complete without a visit to the fort, but be prepared for a climb. My phone registered a whopping 47 flights climbed to reach the top. 

 

Steps up to the old fort at Nafplion

 

However the views are second to none and worth the climb for these alone.

 

Views from fort at Nafplion

 

It is only when you have scaled the mountain that you meet the ticketing lady at the top. It is quite possible to look from the steps and retreat back down seeing a good 50% at a glance without paying. However at 8 Euros entry we were happy to pay and explore the fort. Being built during the Venetian occupation in the early 19th Century it is more recent than the ruins at Mycenae and Epidavros and much more has survived which I enjoyed. Straight away you can see the holes in the fort for shooting arrows at the enemy and appreciate how the elevated position looking out over land and sea made it the perfect place to defend the city below. Large castle walls and sectioned areas were designed for the city to hide in during times of attack.

 

The fort walls at Nafplion

 

Within the fort there is even a little church, complete with burning candles. Visitors must wear a top when entering.

 

Church at the Fort of Napflion in Greece

 

For those not abiding by the rules there is a prison, I must say on the day we visited the depths of the prison offered a welcome coolness absent above ground.

 

Prison in the old fortress at Nafplion in Greece  

 

Back down at sea level we looked back up to see just how far we climbed. I actually found coming down harder on my legs tan going up.

 

Route by foot up to the Fort at Nafplion

 

Our birds eye view from the top had given us a clear idea of how the city was laid out and we set off exploring beginning with the port where the kids were impressed by a small American cruise ship that had come in for the day.

The port at Nafplion

 

I was more taken with the old railway line which finished at the port.

 

Like a scene from a time gone by. The old railway at Nafplion #greece #old #railway #wildwest #disused #disusedrailway #bluesky #holiday #exploring #roadtrip #funtimes #discovery #hot #dusty #city

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The city centre didn’t feel particularly tourist led, instead it is full of cafes and clothes shops typical of any Greek city.

 

Streets of Nafplion town

 

We stopped at a bakery for lunch and ate on a park bench in the shade. There was even a playground next to us for children and beautiful flowers in beds and adorning buildings.

 

Enjoying a picnic lunch in Nafplion

 

The city felt prosperous with little obvious signs of the economic difficulties Greece is encountering at the moment.

Tips for visiting Nafplion

  • Do visit the ancient fort but only in sensible footwear. Farmer Nick took his sandals off walking back down the steps as they had worn smooth and slippery in places and it is a long way to fall!

  • If you fancy the fort and can’t face the steps it is possible to drive from the rear of the mountain to the top as we discovered when asking the ticket lady if she climbed the steps each day.

  • There are toilets and fresh drinking water available at the top of the fort.

  • Parking in the city is very easy; we had no trouble parking right in the centre for free in July.

  • Cafes are abundant around the port for eating or there are plenty of take away bakeries in the town centre.

  • If you fancy a swim there is a beach well signposted and a short walk from the town centre. There is a beach car park but this fills quickly.

  • You could make a full day out of a visit to the city and one I thoroughly recommend. The town is easy to navigate with a pushchair but not the fort.  


The Saints Way from Fowey to Polkerris Beach

Posted on February 24th, 2017 - Fiona

We had a rare Sunday where the boys had a Rugby match in a beautiful harbour town and we and no guests. This was an opportunity for a family adventure and we grabbed the chance. A quick look at the map to find the Rugby pitch and we spotted it was right next to the final section of the Saints Way trail. This is a trail stretching for 30 miles from Padstow on the North Coast to Fowey on the south coast.  We traced the spur path down to Polkerris beach where there was a branch of our favourite Fowey bistro. It only looked about 2.5 miles. The plan was formed and I was looking forward to an adventure.

The Saints Way Fowey to Polkerris

From Rugby to Fowey Town

Dropping the boys at the Rugby pitch Nick, Clio and I noted the path we needed later and drove down into the town. It was as chilly as I remember last time we visited Fowey, but dry so I wasn’t complaining. We mooched around the shops and harbour and warmed up in a cute little coffee shop.

 

Coffee in Fowey

 

By the time we headed back to the Rugby club the boys were just finishing. Caked in mud but thrilled with their win with both scoring a try they headed into the changing rooms.

 

Wadebridge Rugby Leage Juniors away match at Fowey

The Saints Way Trail

Thankfully a quick shower had transformed them and we all set off along the Saints Way trail towards Polkerris. Having never been along the path before we took a map print out for guidance. Nick took great pleasure in sharing his best Geographer skills and testing the kids on the landscape we could expect, the distance and topography.

 

Map reading from Fowey to Polkerris on th Saints Way Trail

 

The Saints Way trail section delivered on every count. We passed through woodland, over little bridges, under a bridge, past farm animals and chatted about all kinds of things whist building our appetites for lunch.

 

Walking the Saints Way trail from Fowey to Polkerris

 

There were trees to climb and trees to practice pull ups and even a rope swing I had to forbid them using as I could see jumping off would risk tumbling down a step bank and an ambulance trip instead of lunch!

 

Tree climbing along the Saints Way trail

 

At one point we went right through a seriously muddy farm. The boys only had trainers on and so accepted a fireman lift from Dad. I wonder how much longer he will be able to do this for, they are already far too heavy for me to lift like this.

 

Polkerris Beach

Finally the beach was insight and the kids ran down only to discover a very much shut looking beach bistro.

 

 

There was nothing for it, a quick splash in the sea and wander over the beach and we headed back.

 

 

With tummies rumbling we made quick work of the return journey along the Saints’ Way and rang ahead to book into the Fowey bistro, our lesson learned! I knew we were returning faster as we had all stripped off coats and jumpers and it wasn’t actually very warm.

 

Walking the Saint's Way back from Polkerris to Fowey

Back in Fowey

We would have needed to walk back anyway so we hadn’t really lost out and the walk was refreshing. We were however more than ready for lunch!

 

Lunch at Sam's Biestro in Fowey

 

By the time we finished the sun had come out and as the boys had missed out in the morning we took one last look around the harbour enjoying the local ice cream.  

 

Exploring Fowey Harbour

We left before Jed could frighten me anymore balancing on railings too close to the sea! Driving home I realised how special family days out like this are. We will be back into our busy season soon, but at least I have this section of The Saints’ Way as another good recommendation to pass on to those on holidays with us looking for  fun family days out.  

 

 

Tips for walking the Saints’ Way from Fowey to Polkerris Beach and Back

  • Park on the road by the Fowey Rugby club

  • Wear wellies or good walking boots, trainers may be OK in summer.

  • not suitable for buggies or wheelchairs.

  • Distance is about 2 – 2.5 miles each way but feels further with rugged ground and some steep climbs.

  • Take towels / change of clothes for swimming or paddling at Polkerris beach.

  • Sam’s Bistro have great deluxe burgers and seafood but is pricey. Open all year in Fowey town but seasonal opening  at Polkerris.

  • For cheaper food options in Fowey there are several bakeries serving pasties and more with plenty of harbour seating available to enjoy the view. We do this in summer.

  • Toilets at Fowey and Polkerris require 20p entry.

  • Parking in Fowey is very limited, park in the signed car park and walk into the town. Aprox 1/3 mile.

  • Harbour rails in Fowey are not idea for small children and they need to be supervised running near the edge.
Country Kids


Uncovering Kantia the local retreat from Athens

Posted on February 18th, 2017 - Fiona

Following on from my posts about Athens and where we stayed in Kefisia, I’m sharing today the next leg of our Greek trip last summer. It’s a bit of a change from my Sunday photos on the farm but the area is so beautiful in a very different way to Cornwall, I wanted to share a little of what we enjoyed here and brighten up a Sunday in February.  

  Top tips for visiting Kantia in Greece with teenagers  

 

Booking a holiday independently from the UK in an area you are unfamiliar with is not easy, even in the modern age of the internet. We wanted a two centre holiday, beginning with a few days in Athens and finishing with a few days on the coast. For our coastal stay the area near Nafplion, in the Peloponnese region south of Athens, appealed having good reviews. We randomly selected a hotel in a little village called Kantia. That was back in February last year and we had a whole 5 months to wait before we would find out if our choice was a wise one.

 

Decorative boat planted with shrubs on the beach in Kantia

 

The Greek roads have been transformed out of all recognition in the 20 years since I last visited. A super new highway connected Athens with the Peloponnese and in our hire car, complete with sat nav; we reached our destination in under 3 hours. Stepping out of the car was like stepping back into the Greece I remembered; dusty roads, fabulous houses next to derelict ones, rooms to rent and a rather undiscovered beach devoid of all the touristy water sports.  Instead the beach supported just the odd Taverna every 200 yards or so, lemon trees, olive trees, the odd dog lying underneath and our little hotel just 30 yards up a dirt track from the beach.  This was clearly a place for the locals but with a Greek surname and a smattering of Greek it was just what we were hoping for.

 

Felix looking from the hotel to the beach

 

After confusion on arrival and a misplaced booking we were in. Thank God my ever prepared husband had the bank statements and emails printed out to prove we had booked and paid. I did feel sorry for the flustered owner, it is my one nightmare, that the booking system will fail and I’ll have a family arrive I’m not expecting. I’m pleased to say in 15 years it has not yet happened! 

 

View from the hotel to beach at Kantia

 

Our 4 days here were perfect. After an adequate breakfast we set out exploring the area in the mornings covering Nafplion, Mycenae and Epidavros retreating back in the afternoon for a swim and siesta around the pool or down on the beach.

 

I love this photo of my eldest and his Dad (Farmer Nick)  walking from the hotel to the beach together.

Farmer Nick and Ally walking to the beach in Kantia

 

 

We explored on foot and swam for miles before falling into one of the two tavernas each night to watch the sun go down, sipping ouzo and indulging in the local Greek food.

 

 

Dinner at a beachside Taverna in Kantia

Greek style squid is still one of my favourite meals

Squid at a Taverna in Kantia

Sun setting inland over Kantia

sunset over Kantia

Early Morning was my favourite time to swim when the sea was as calm as a pond 

Sunrise over the bay at Kantia

Tips and pitfalls of staying in Kantia

  • We stayed in the Candia House Hotel. It is a mid range hotel, nothing fancy, a little tired but friendly and welcoming and more than adequate. We ended up in the Presidential suit after confusion with our booking, which was a cut above the other rooms. It had a pool and wonderful views out to sea from our suite and the breakfast room / veranda. There is shady parking area for cars and rooms are serviced daily. I would book here again if returning to Kantia.

  • Pack light. We only travelled with hand luggage which saved us over £100 each and this was adequate in July. I never needed a jacket once; only swim wear, shorts, tops and a couple of floaty dresses.

  • It is suitable for children but be careful in the water as it shelves very quickly so younger children may find swim aids helpful.

  • My favourite time to swim was at sunrise and after dark when the sea was like a lake. A wind whipped up the waves during the day.

  • WiFi is excellent all around. There is free beach WiFi and it was free in the Tavernas and in our hotel.

  • You have to feel comfortable with the Greek style of eating. There is only Greek food on the menu and it is served Greek style, i.e. haphazardly when it is ready. We were happy to go with the flow and share everything, but if you like to order and eat your own it is not ideal as one dish may be half an hour ahead of another.

  • Watch out ordering wine, it is only local and pretty poor quality. I loved the old peasant wine Retzina, however this is no longer sold even in the supermarkets, the replacement is quite poor if you like a good sauvignon like me. Local beer is a better bet.

  • In the absence of good wine I developed a taste for the local Ouzo with ice. Watch out though as the little bottles I had were 75% proof and more like half pint sized!

  • The locals all speak excellent English and are very hospitable so asking anything is easy.

  • Kantia is a made up spelling from the Greek alphabet. Unfortunately every map producer has chosen a different English equivalent meaning you have to watch for signs to Kantia, Cantia, Candia and try them all in a sat nav!

  • We hired a car from Kafisia where were staying in Athens via Hertz rental and opted for the Sat Nav too. It was a 5 seater costing £320 for 4 days returning to Athens Airport which is well signed on the return journey. Petrol is a similar price to the UK.

Would I recommend Kantia?

If you want to experience the real Greece then this is a great holiday, however if you want modern resort facilities and a variety of cuisine this may not be for you. The beaches were quiet during the week but busy at the weekend as the Athenians came down for their weekend / day retreat. For me it was perfect and just what I hoped for my boy’s age 16 and 18. This year we are tied to school holidays again and will be enjoying the summer from home in Cornwall, however I hope to return with our younger children one day.

Keep Calm and Carry On Linking Sunday


A Short Break Weekend in Winter

Posted on February 17th, 2017 - Fiona

Winter can feel very long without a few things to look forward to. One tradition we have is a family winter short break to our favourite hotel in Devon on a weekend when we have no visitors at Coombe Mill. We spotted our chance and booked up.

A winter break for the family to Devon

The hotel is one we have been going to for 21 years, since our honeymoon. I’d have never thought back then that it would be somewhere we would still be returning to all these years later with our now almost fully grown 6 children. It is pricey and so 2 nights in mid winter is all we can stretch too but we all look forward to the break.

Thurlestone Hotel Devon

Our first day was met with a real south westerly wind and drizzle, not to be put off some of us braved the coast path.

Wet coastal family walk

The more sensible ones opted for the badminton and squash courts and it wasn’t long before we caught them up for some inter family challenges.

Squash and Badminton inter family challenge on holiday

The outdoor pool was unsurprisingly closed but thankfully the indoor one was open and the kids were in and out all weekend when they had a spare half hour.

family time in the swimming pool on holiday at Thurlestone

Day two was quite different with glorious sunshine and warm too, there was no time for indoor swimming as we headed out to wear off our indulgent breakfast. Guy and Jed fancied themselves as the next Wimbledon stars

Playing tennis at Thurlestone

The others dabbled at golf. This is Farmer Nick’s passion and a big part of choosing this hotel 21 years ago. He has so much patience teaching the children and keeping their spirits up after landing in the rough.

Golf at Thurlestone

I find golf very frustrating and am happy to enjoy the coast path after failing to gain a true golf score again!

Thurlestone beach in winter sun

After a full day of outdoor fun dressing up for dinner is a treat and enjoying the odd mocktail or cocktail down in the bar.

Dinner at the Thurlestone Hotel in Devon

Even with one very rainy day we had another wonderful visit and returned to the farm feeling refreshed and ready to greet those visiting us for a welcome winter short break.  

 

Do you have a short break to look forward to in winter?


 North Cornwall with images from around the world.

Posted on February 4th, 2017 - Fiona

Coombe Mill is set just off Bodmin Moor in North Cornwall. It is nestled at the base of a valley with the river Camel running through the middle. The Camel’s source is high in the moor and it reaches the sea at Padstow. It struck me when looking through a few comments on my Pinterest just what a beautiful part of the country we live in and how it resembles parts of the world many miles away. My countryside sunset photos have been likened to Africa while our rugged coast and turquoise waters likened to Hawaii. Winter harbour photos have been mistaken for summer in Padstow and I see New Zealand’s south Island in much of our North Cornwall landscape.   

Postcards from North Cornwall

I thought I’d share a few of the recent contrasting photos that have generated these global comparisons.

Padstow Summer or Winter?

I always maintain that the coast is timeless and seasons melt into one. But for the temperature which is hard to convey in a photo, this photo in Padstow was mistaken for summer but is in fact from a visit over the Christmas holidays

 

North Corwall boasts of Padstow

Cornish Coast or Hawaii?

I have taken to running the coast path this winter after dropping the kids into school in the mornings. There is a beautiful loop covering the coast and veering inland that covers about 6 miles. One of my favourite views is coming round the headland from Polzeath and seeing The Rumps stretching ahead. This photo was a quick I phone capture last week that was likened to Hawaii.

 

North Corwall coastline near Polzeath looking like Hawaii

North Cornwall Countryside or Africa

I do love to chase a sunset. With my long lens looking out from our lane towards the sea the orange glow reflecting back has been likened to the African plains.

 

North Cornwall Sunset looking like Africa

Coombe Mill or New Zealand

I have never visited the African planes or Hawaii, however I have been to New Zealand and parts of this remind me so much of home here in North Cornwall. This next photo is taken along our ravine and is typical of the waterfalls and streams of New Zealand.

 

Stream at the top of the ravine at Coombe Mill North Cornwall looking like New Zealand

 

If you fancy an exotic holiday without the cost, North Cornwall is a pretty good compromise!  For everyday bargains Marks and Spenser have some savings you may like and a little careful shopping with find you plenty of other deals from well known companies. Grab your bargain whether it is a holiday or a new look for the home.   

My thanks to A Modern Mother, Mummy from the Heart,  Lets pack our Bags Blog for inspiring this post through their comments on my Instagram photos.  

DisclosureSponsored links included.